Historical builds are where kitbashing gets addictive: unlike a comic character, there's a photographic record to build against. A WWII infantry figure is the classic starting point — the reference material is endless and the parts are well served in 1/12. Here's a build order that works.
1. Body: realistic, not heroic
Wartime soldiers were ordinary builds, so skip the exaggerated physiques. A standard or slim athletic body around 6 inches reads correctly once the uniform is on. Deep articulation matters more than sculpted muscle — kneeling, prone, and shouldered-rifle poses are the whole point of a military figure.
2. Uniform: the era does the talking
The uniform sets the theater and the year. Decide who you're building — US infantry, an Axis tanker, an airborne trooper — before buying a single piece, because mixing theaters is the mistake every finished-photo thread notices. Start browsing by era in parts by genre & era and clothing & outfits.
3. Web gear: where accuracy lives
Belt, suspenders, ammo pouches, canteen, entrenching tool — load-bearing kit is what separates a costume from a soldier. It also hides the waist joint, which never hurts. See web gear, vests & pouches for the building blocks.
4. Weapon and hands together
Match the weapon to the impression and the hands to the weapon — a rifle needs a trigger hand and a support hand to pose convincingly. Our weapons section covers the period hardware; and you can browse for matching hands to finish the look.
5. The five-percent details
Helmet with the right liner look (helmets & headgear), a slung pack, a bayonet on the belt. One or two touches beyond the obvious loadout are what make people ask where you bought the figure — the answer being: you didn't.
New to the hobby? Read the beginner's kitbashing guide first, then come back — this build is a perfect second project.